Immediately below Baidi City is Kui
Men, the entrance to the first of the three gorges of
the Yangtze River-the eight--kilometre
(five-mile) long

Qutang
Gorge (also known by early
Western travellers as the Wind Box Gorge). The shortest
but grandest of them all,
the gorge's widest point is
only 150 metres (500 feet). Mists frequently swirl
around the mysterious Iimestone
peaks, some nearly 1,200
metres (4,000 feet) high, and the river rushes swift as
an arrow through the narrow
entrance, pounding the
perpendicular cliff faces on either side of the
gorge.
This gorge was a particularly
dangerous stretch during high-water seasons and has been
known to rise to 50
metres (165 feet). An upper Yangtze
steamboat captain recalled how in September l929 the
level of water was
75 metres (246 feet), and likened the
passage to a trough, with the water banked up on both
sides. His ship
became quite unmanageable, and was
carried down, broadside on, only coming under control
again at the
lower end. He would never, he vowed, try to
negotiate it again at such a level.
Two mountains--Red
Passage Mountain (Chijia Shan) to the north, once
compared to a celestial peach, and White Salt Mountain
(Baiyan Shan)
to the south form the Kui Men entrance,
their steep precipices like the wings of a giant door
guarding the tumultuous waters.
At the
highest point above Hanging Monk Rock one can see Armour
Cave (Kuanaiia Dong) where it is said a Song-dynasty
woman general hid
her weapons. In 1958 the cave was
explored and found to contain three 2,000-year-old
wooden coffins from the Kingdom of Ba, in which were
bronze swords and lacquered wooden
combs.
Near the Meng Liang Stairway
is the Drinking Phocnix Spring, a stalagmite in the
shape of a phoenix drinking the sweet spring--water.
Nearby is
the Chalk Wall (Fengbi Tang) where 900
characters, dating from the Song dynasty, have been
carved by famous calligraphers on the rock face.
The
site derives its name from the limestone powder which
was used to smooth rock surfaces before being
carved.
Two kilometres (1.2 miles)
further, the Baozi Tan (a triple rapid) and the XiamaTan
used to be serious dangers to shipping at low-water
level. A
traveller on one of the Yangtze steamships in
the 1930s remarked : Only the throbbing of the engines
as the bow entered the most turbulent part
of the rapid,
and buried its nose deep in the boiling water, revealed
its presence to the uninitiated. But on looking back one
could see that there
had been a drop of two or three
feet in the water where the rapid was most violent.
Above it was a series of whirlpools and races.